6.30 am in Zurich after nine hour flight from Mumbai. Feel wide awake and sleepy simultaneously, if that’s possible. Better hurry for the connecting flight to Copenhagen. Airport’s a paragon of cleanliness and efficiency. Cow’s moo among alpine meadows on images projected onto the train between terminals – is that nutty or what? Fabulous mountain views upon take off from Zurich – the Alps really are something else. Quick in and out of Copenhagen’s Kastrup airport,on to a train and over the remarkable Oresund bridge over the sea into Malmo in Sweden – from one country to another in 22 minutes! Boy, I love Europe.
Lug my heavy bag around asking for directions to the hotel, only to discover it’s across the street from the station. Being put up in relative luxury by the Swedish government at the Savoy hotel, owned by Bicky Chakraborty, an expat fellow-Bong. Richest Indian in Scandinavia, apparently. We Indians are everywhere, I tell you. Decide to be environmentally unfriendly and luxuriate in a hot tub, before pulling on the woollies and setting out to explore the town.
Er, is everyone dead or what? About two and a half people and three dogs on the streets, all tied to lamp posts (the dogs, that is, not the people). Oh yes, it’s Sunday, when most European cities are deserted. Still, it’s a nice day and not too cold (can you really classify 3º as ‘not too cold’?), so walking around seems like a good plan. Malmo’s a pleasant enough town, with a medium-sized medieval fortress and the famous ‘Turning Torso’ building, visible for miles around. Also famous for its beach, which fills up rapidly during summer. Hear there’s a nude beach as well (how very Scandinavian), but in this weather you’d have to be mad to get your kit off. Scratch visit to nude beach, then. Gorge on a doner kabab the size of a cannon for lunch. Bloody freezing now, with the wind deciding to ruffle a few skirts. Keep wandering around and risk hypothermia or take a nap in heated hotel room? Choices, choices. Wake up at 11.30 pm, having had a seven-hour ‘nap’. Had wanted to call a friend of my parents’ who lives here and say hello, but 11.30 is probably pushing it a bit. Lights out again.I’m driving a Koenigsegg CCX. I can’t believe it. That’s all that needs to be said. First Indian auto journo to drive one, too. Am I gloating? Perhaps a teensy bit. Air force museum next door to Koenigsegg seems closed – ah, but jovial gent sees me nosing around and gives me a guided tour. Amazing machinery in there, and he gives me two Saab Viggen pins for free. What a delightfully friendly lot, these Swedes! Always smiling and willing to help out. Hop on to an SAS flight to Stockholm after the CCX drive feeling full of life. Hmm, curvy air hostess.
220 kph train blasts me from Stockholm’s Arlanda airport to central train station in 20 minutes – superb. With public transport like this, who needs personal wheels? Ask cabbie to take me to Nordic Sea hotel. Looks at me and says ‘500 kroner’. Seems steep, but what do I know? ‘Ok’, I say and open the door. He laughs and points straight ahead. ‘Nordic Sea Hotel’ in big neon letters. Thank him and walk 30 feet to the hotel, red-faced. Snowing lightly now, although it doesn’t feel too cold. Scratch that, by the time I get to hotel door I’m freezing. Welcome to Sweden in winter. Have elk meat in red wine reduction (what does reduction mean, anyway?) for dinner – excellent.
Meet fellow journalists at breakfast – a Russian (‘Mye nyame yees Alexzaaander. I am fruom Moskva.’), a Frenchman (Phillipe Billon, sweet guy, makes extravagant hand gestures and snorting noises while talking), an Irishman (David, lovely lilting Irish accent) and an Estonian woman (Tuuli Aug, hotel receptionist thinks her surname is short for August, leading to much confusion). My companions for the next four days, better get to know them well. Jan, our weather-beaten point-man from the Swedish government, is a jovial chap, always eager to help. All set, then.
-14º C outside. Snow everywhere. Fair amount of walking to be done. Hmm. Wrapped up in layers of clothes, but cold still lands a vicious right hook. Within five minutes, I’m a walking sperm bank. Ears are smarting and head hurts, plus I’m having trouble moving my jaw to speak. Tuuli says this is nothing, it’s almost -25ºC in Estonia. How nice for them. As soon as I’m indoors, have to take off virtually all my clothes because it’s too warm. Four days of this epic striptease – just what I need.
What do you know, I’m used to the cold by now. Been a good few days. Met people from various government agencies, NGOs and private firms, all in the area of road safety. They’re doing an impressive job – deaths and accidents are down. Travel to various parts of southern Sweden, mainly by train (rail system here is superb). Quite a flat country, not spectacularly beautiful but with its own charm. Go to Saab museum, which is just great. Srini would’ve loved it. Saab people host dinner at a cosy restaurant, lots of frou-frou food but very tasty – caviar and reindeer and heaven knows what else. Phillipe is in fine form, waving his hands like a French Bruce Lee, and boy, can Russians drink!Official trip’s done with, good byes have been said, I’m back in Stockholm. No more luxurious hotel rooms and gourmet food it’s a hostel bunk bed, shared loo and hot dogs here on in. Still fun. Go out and buy a proper winter jacket, no more layering for me. First things first, have to call Mikael, my old pal from university in Australia. Raised a bit of hell together in Oz seven years ago, will be good to see him again. He sounds just the same, only he’s about to be a father in six months’ time and, as I sit and write this, he’ll be getting married. Can this be the same Mikael who... actually,never mind.
Gamla Stan, or ‘Old Town’, is where it all began in Stockholm in the 13th century. Decide to walk down, always a pleasure in Europe. Stockholm’s a city of islands, with the Norrstrom river flowing through them. Very picturesque, very clean and very friendly – certainly a great capital city. Everyone speaks good English as well, always a big help. Gamla Stan’s absolutely stunning, like stepping back in time. Hard to believe it used to be considered a slum at one point, until extensive restoration in the 1980s. Beautiful old buildings and cobblestone – you just can’t beat the combination. Paradise for me, since I love photographing doors and windows; there’s thousands here. Buildings’ vibrant colours leaped out and helped to brighten an overcast day. Went to the Royal Palace, a grand baroque edifice rebuilt in the 18th century after a fire. Poor soldiers standing guard march up and down occasionally, just to keep warm. That’s one job I don’t want.
Cathedral next door is lovely as well, although (as Mikael explains to me later) church attendance is dropping in Sweden. More and more people becoming disillusioned with organised religion and either dropping out altogether or taking to alternative faiths like Buddhism. Sign of the times, I suppose. Nobel Museum fascinating, with detailed history of the award and its winners. Lovely as Gamla Stan is, it’s still a tourist attraction, so no getting away from souvenir shops and crowds. Nevertheless, still a very cheerful place, even in freezing weather. Down a couple of hot chocolates at a beautiful cafe and call Mikael. Turns out he lives in Gamla Stan, bang next to the cathedral. What a location! Much reminiscing and beverage drinking happens in his cheery top-floor flat. Always great to meet old friends.Next day is just glorious – blue sky, sunshine and blindingly white snow carpeting everything. Do a tour of some museums (Stockholm has more than 70!), including a Skansen, a brilliant open air museum with reconstructions of life through the ages in Sweden – printing press, bakery, apothecary, tool shop and others all lovingly displayed. Best part is interactivity, because you can walk into/through everything. Vassa Museum spectacular too, with a huge 17th century warship called the Vassa. Wasn’t very successful at war, since it sank minutes into its maiden voyage, but impressive nonetheless. National Museum has superb collection of art from the ages – Rubens, Rembrandt, Gaugin, Degas, Renoir, Russian Icons, you name it. Also section on evolution of applied art and design – must-see for anyone even remotely interested. Wow, is it evening already? Time to sample nightlife. Come across Stampen, a live jazz and blues bar, with a down-n-dirty band playing loud enough to be heard in Finland. My day is made. I love Stockholm. Next stop Amsterdam!
Travel log
Sweden is probably not among the first countries you think of when planning a trip to Europe, but it's well worth slotting in. Stockholm is of course where you should go first, because it has everything – culture, nightlife and natural beauty. Gamla Stan is a place where you can spend at least a couple of days just walking around. It's full of little alleys that lead to other alleys that... you get the picture. There's innumerable cafes, restaurants and shops here to keep your wallet well-exercised (and it will be – Sweden isn't the cheapest country on earth by any means). A good way to see the Stockholm archipelago is to get on a boat and take a cruise. It's a very relaxing way to spend an afternoon, and the scenery is truly lovely. Museums abound in the city – there's the Postal museum, the Vassa museum, the National museum, the Theatre museum, the Skansen open air museum and the Modern museum (these are just a few, mind you) and all are highly recommended. There's plenty to do at night a well. Try the Ice Bar at the Nordic Sea hotel, where everything, from the glasses to the bar counter, is made of ice. They give you Arctic coats to wear as well! Stampen is a rip-roaring live music joint, and Mosebacke Etablissement has music for all tastes.
Lufthansa and Swissair fly from Mumbai and Delhi to Stockholm, via Frankfurt and Zurich respectively. Round trip economy tickets cost roughly Rs 35,000, depending on how early you book. Sweden is an expensive country, but you can still have a good holiday without breaking the bank. Renstierna Hotel and Hostel (www.hostelworld.com, from 38 euro for a bunk bed) is excellent value at the budget end. The Nordic Sea Hotel (www.nordicseahotel.se, 74 euro onwards) is superbly situated next to the railway station and is the best mid-range option. Top tier accommodation? The Grand Hotel (www.grandhotel.se, 200 euro onwards) is the last word. Note that euro prices mentioned are for convenience; Sweden uses kroner (euro price x 10).
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