Phew. Five days in Amsterdam come to an end, five of the very best days at that. Time to keep-a-movin’. Next scheduled stop Belgium. I’ll be honest here; Belgium wasn’t top of my list of European countries to visit. I mean, it doesn’t exactly spring to mind when you think Europe, does it? Almost decide to bypass it at the nth hour and nip straight over to Paris instead (now THAT’S a place and a half for you). Joost offers advice to the contrary, though. ‘Don’t go by preconceptions. Belgium’s a great country, go there and you’ll have fun. Great beer they make, too.’ Right, how much is a train ticket to Belgium, then?
Soon on a train out of Amsterdam Centraal. Headed to Ghent, a World Heritage city (also spelt Gent and, in an unfortunate twist, Gand, and pronounced like you’re having a mild choking attack). Was also at one point the second largest city in Europe after Paris, bigger than heavyweights like London and Moscow. You learn something new every day, eh? Nothing is too far away in Europe, so within a couple of hours the train deposits me at Ghent St. Pieters station. Get off with fellow backpackers and go in search of the tram to my hostel. First impression’s neutral – the station’s a graceful old number and immediate surroundings pleasant enough. World Heritage level, however? Not this part of town, at any rate.But wait, what’s this I see? As the tram trundles towards the town’s centre, I spy a soaring church spire in the distance. Architecture’s changing, too. Contemporary Euro-bland (I made that up) gives way to quaint town houses until, when I get off at my stop, I’m in the middle of a full-blown medieval town, complete with cobblestones, lovely buildings, canals and a stonking great castle – Gravensteen, or ‘castle of the count’, the town’s true centerpiece. Decide to go have a look right away, which isn’t the simplest thing to do when lugging two rather heavy bags.
What the heck, probably need the exercise anyway.Built in the 11th century, over the years it served as digs to various counts of the region, a prison, a courthouse and even a factory making indeterminate goods. Was scheduled for demolition before the town wisely bought and restored it. Gives the impression of being much larger than it actually is, which I suppose is the whole idea. Inside, it’s quite interesting, with a collection of weapons from different eras. Set out to find my hostel, which entails a walk through lanes and alleys of such startling prettiness that it’s almost a crime. Every sloping roof, every ancient door and window, every mischievous ray of sunshine lighting up a colourful wall – all of them combine to produce an atmosphere of ineffable good cheer. Hostel’s tucked away in a quiet corner, which is great. Helps that the girl at the reception is near-Miss World calibre. ‘Here, have a map of the town, it’s got all the information you’re likely to need’, she says and lets loose a smile that, if you’re unprepared, could cause serious damage. Thank goodness I took Joost’s advice.
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