As I discovered the next morning (it’s a bit difficult to make judgements about lotus-eating when you’re blundering about in the dark), this piece of advice was spot on. You’ll be hard pressed to believe that at one point, the 35-acre property was a fairly bare silkworm plantation – today, after an extensive reforestation effort, it almost looks a part of the surrounding jungle. All the accommodation areas are discreetly built into the surroundings (something sorely lacking in a lot of other jungle lodges I’ve seen), with the result that you can wander around the property almost without realising you’re at a resort. My own digs were a lovely little dormitory (with fabulous roof-less showers for that open air touch), and after luxuriating in one of them, I decided to stretch my legs a bit. I hadn’t gone more than a few yards down the path from the dorm when a spotted deer leaped right across it, causing me to leap fairly impressively myself. It was a good thing I didn’t go any further, because at least ten more deer of all sizes followed their comrade; I would’ve been broadsided for sure. I discovered later that the herd lives on the property – how cool is that?! You can, in fact, not set foot outside the resort and still spot all sorts of wildlife. In the course of a couple of hours, I chanced upon peacocks, a hornbill (and many other birds I couldn’t recognise), a flying squirrel, what looked from a distance like a wild boar, a bunch of hares and a rat-snake – not bad, eh?
Later in the afternoon, I dived into what must surely be one of the most picturesque swimming pools anywhere, one built like a natural watering hole and surrounded by hills – and at night, it’s not unknown for animals to come and use it to drink from. A slap-up lunch had been laid on too, and I ate till bursting point before settling down under a shady tree and catching up on some cerebral reading matter (OK, so it was Asterix – Asterix is cerebral too, you know). Abruptly, as the sun descended behind the hills, a chill set into the air, setting up the scene for the evening perfectly – it was new year’s eve, after all, and I and the motley bunch of guests were looking forward to roaring bonfires and warming liquids. Everyone showed up at the quaint dining area, in their finest threads, and thus commenced one of the more memorable new year celebrations of my life. The mood was ineffably genial; people who had never met one another before were getting along like old friends, slapping backs and doubling over with laughter. When the gong struck, a more heartfelt round of hugs and ‘Happy Noo Yaars!’ could scarcely have been found elsewhere – don’t be surprised if my story, this time next year, somehow revolves around Mudumalai again!
Travel log
Like I said, Mudumalai is a must-visit for anyone interested in nature and wildlife. Base yourself at one of the several resorts and lodges in the area; there are any number of activities you can take part in. A trek up in the hills or in the grasslands is a fabulous option and will have you heaving lungfuls of fresh air. Get into an open safari jeep and set off on a guided safari – you’re almost guaranteed to see wildlife of some sort. If you’re lucky, a big cat sighting might come your way; the day before I arrived, a tiger had been spotted on one such safari. A night safari makes for a great experience too, for a totally different atmosphere. There’s an elephant camp and museum, where you can watch domesticated elephants being fed and bathed. Visits to nearby spice plantations and tea and coffee estates can be fun, as can be excursions to tribal villages. Ooty is only 35 km away, so a quick dash up there is possible too, if only just to buy fresh ‘Ooty chocolate’ (I did).
Jungle Retreat(www.jungleretreat.com, Rs 473 onwards) is a fantastic place to stay while in Mudumalai. It’s fun, beautifully set up and has great people running the place. Not far away is Jungle Hut (www.junglehut.in, Rs 1,250 onwards), virtually a sister concern.
MOTOR LOG
Hyundai Verna 1.6
Total distance covered: 674 km
Kpl: 12
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